40 kilometers from Madrid, Golden City was established,
the first town for filming of westerns of which there is hardly anything left
and from which an archaeological excavation has recovered material
— 'Mi soledad tiene alas' (My loneliness has wings), Mario
Casas' directorial debut is as professional as it is inane
el DIARIO.com
By Javier Zurro
August 25, 2023
300 cubic meters of wood. 60 tons of cement. Half a
million bricks and more than 30 kilos of dynamite. 75,000 hours of the work of
100 men were necessary to build, at the beginning of the 60s, a western town in
Hoyo de Manzanares, a town 35 kilometers from Madrid that became the nerve
center of western cinema in the following years. A bar, ranches, cabins and
several cemeteries turned Golden City into the first town of the style built in
Spain. Although many always refer to Almeria as a key site for the spaghetti
western, before it was this Madrid town that opened the doors of its saloon.
Through its arena walked from national stars such as
Marisol or Tony Leblanc to Sophia Loren. Its peak was touched a couple of years
after its creation, in 1964, when Clint Eastwood stepped on the sand of Hoyo de
Manzanares with his cowboy boots and shot in Golden City one of the most
important films in the history of cinema, For a Fistful of Dollars, the
imposing work of Sergio Leone that made this scenario be seen on screens around
the world. Less than 60 years have passed, and of that corner, history of
cinema, there are only a few stones that delimit what it was. The pride of the
village, the most desired decoration, is now a lot. Its abandonment since the
70s was progressive until in 2010 came its total disappearance.
But where did all that go? Despite its destruction and
abandonment much of what existed and what was lived is still present ...
underground. That is why this year, for the first time, archaeological work has
been organized to show what the sand of Hoyo de Manzanares hides. A work that
comes hand in hand and thanks also to the commitment of the Hoyo Cine
association directed by Julián Iglesias and that tries to ensure that
everything does not fall into oblivion. There have been several initiatives
that it has had for this, including an augmented reality app in which you can
see what that unique decoration was like. Now he has had the help of Jesús
Martín Alonso, archaeologist and director of a project that aims to unearth the
cinematographic memory, which is also historical, of the place.
[The town of Golden City at its best in the filming of 'The
Shadow of Zorro' Hoyo Cine Association.]
Julián Iglesias is the one who set out, many years ago,
to recover that memory. He arrived in Hoyo de Manzanares in the year 86, and
always heard the same comment: "I'm going to walk through the
scenery." One day, walking with his wife, he saw that there were some
ruins of what had been a movie set. He, who had always liked research, was
"bitten by the bug" and began to look for what had happened in those
lands. He began to ask, search, and create a database of the shootings that had
taken place in his new home.
In 2010 he had a list of about 30 films that were shot
there, and they already seemed "a barbarity". Now, thanks to the
Internet and the time spent, you already know that more than 150 were shot in
Golden City. In spite of this, the best known town is still that of Almeria,
especially because that one "has endured over time". There were also
others in Catalonia and Aragon, but those have suffered the same fate as Golden
City: oblivion.
[A scene from Sergio Leone's film 'For a Fistful of
Dollars', shot in Golden City.]
With his association they make guided tours. Two or three
a year. People have to make an explanation so that they understand what that
town meant, because if not, when they reach that empty esplanade they see
nothing. An area that "well treated would have been very well even if it
were a few remains". One of the main problems is that the town settled
within the Regional Park of the Cuenca Alta del Manzanares, a protected area,
and any activity requires specific permits. It was in 2010 when the few
remaining remains were removed.
"The only thing we managed
to keep are two original troughs of the films that have been maintained with
the promise, by the consistory, to restore them and fill them with water. In
this summer season the field animals have a place to drink and are filled with
a tanker truck and at least we have managed to maintain it, "says Julián
Iglesias. One of the reasons they give for denying them any activity is that
"they don't want it to become a theme park."
This May they have achieved
something different. An archaeological excavation to unearth the
cinematographic memory that hid the land of Hoyo del Manzanares. The result has
dusted off frames used by the directors, prop bullet casings, bricks from the
old buildings and coins from the shoots. At the head of the project was Jesús
Alonso Martín, an archaeologist who says that this project was born within the
framework of his doctoral thesis, dedicated to "contemporary archaeology".
Two terms that seem like an oxymoron, because when you think of a term like
'archaeology', centuries-old excavations and little-known civilizations always
come to mind.
[Jesús Martín at the archaeological excavation of Golden
City in May.]
When he was told about Golden City, it seemed logical
that the first western settlement in Spain would become "the first filming
site to be excavated in Spain with archaeological methodology." A way also
to publicize this enclave, since "many people do not know this place or
know that very important westerns for the history of cinema were filmed
there".
A film set is not considered "archaeological
heritage", but it has still had to ask for permits from the General
Directorate of Cultural Heritage, and has applied the same methodology as if an
Egyptian tomb were excavated. "The people who passed by when we were doing
the intervention asked us what we were doing, and I said, well, digging. There
were people who said that this was not an excavation because 'that was very
current and very contemporary,'" he recalls of his action.
[Bullet casing used in a movie shoot, unearthed in Golden
City. Jesús Martín.]
Being located in a regional park, one of the conditions
for them to be allowed to carry out the excavation was "to leave
everything as we found it". The team worked with a biologist to protect
the most sensitive plants so that there was no problem with the fauna and flora
of the place. "The grass has to grow, but I covered the holes that had
been made, so you can see absolutely nothing except some walls that were
already visible and that I left a little more uncovered so that they could be
seen in the future in the guided tours, so that people who were could see a
little bit," confesses the archaeologist.
Everyone would like it not to be an ephemeral excavation,
but "it's difficult." "On a material level, I mean real estate,
there is nothing left. They literally loaded it, very hard. You could try with
the rescued material to make a museum, that would be fine. A museum of the
shootings, of the daily life of the actors and extras, but unfortunately they
did not leave much, "says Jesus Alonso sadly. The unearthed material is
not considered archaeological heritage "because it is not old
enough", but having been granted permission and made with archaeological
methodology has been delivered "to the Regional Archaeological Museum as
if it were a Roman tableware".
[One of the few bricks that remain after recovering what
was buried in Hoyo del Manzanares Jesús Martín.]
A self-financed activity, without public aid, and from
which "at the material level many things have come out". A pioneering
activity that shows that the cinematographic memory of a country is also
historical memory. "We are very closed-minded, and it seems that because
it is not archaeological, they do not consider it heritage. In the cemetery of
Sad Hill – mythical setting in Burgos where the end of The Good, the Bad and
the Ugly – was filmed – they tried to get the protection of heritage by film space
and I think they have not succeeded. Let's see if we get it with Golden City.
Hopefully, but it is difficult to understand that archaeology can also reach
our days and that it can study anything."